For 10 years, owners Mark Drazek and Barbara Mulas struggled
with a bad location in San Francisco, and last year they packed
up and reopened in Berkeley. The space is twice as large but
the food is similar, though simplified, and the crowds are eating
it up. The couple took over the handsome space that once housed
Mazzini and made only a few cosmetic changes to the two dining
rooms separated by cherry wainscotting and Carrera marble. One
room is defined by a sleek built-in bookcase filled with art
glass, the other by a barrel ceiling and an impressive arrangement
of fresh flowers.
Cuisine: Mediterranean Specialities: Twice-baked goat-cheese souffle
with apple, celery and fennel salad; warm duck liver salad; herb-crusted
pork chop; apple galette with caramel ice cream. Seats: 120 Prices: $13-$17 Parking: Street (generally easy) Vitals: 2826 Telegraph Ave. (near Stuart), Berkeley;
(510) 848-9299. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and
credit cards accepted.
