One of the pleasures of a weekend morning in San
Francisco is dropping into this Richmond District restaurant
for Chinese dumplings. Of course, others have the same idea,
and at peak times there's always a wait. The restaurant opened
in 1977 and has become so popular that it takes at least nine
chefs to turn out enough dumplings to feed the hordes that squeeze
into the large room. At night, the restaurant offers a full
menu with some Hakka-inspired specialties, though you can still
get dim sum, which traditionally is served only during the day.
Cuisine: Chinese Specialities: Steamed dump- lings and dim sum;
salt-baked chicken; clay-pot dishes; garlic-laced pea shoots; crisp-skinned
duck; prawns with glazed walnuts; lobster with ginger. Seats: 250 Prices: $8-$24 Parking: Street (often difficult) Vitals: 5821 Geary Blvd. (between 22nd and 23rd),
San Francisco; (415) 386-8530. Dim sum and dinner daily. Beer and
wine. Credit cards and reservations for large parties accepted.
