You'll be hearing a lot more about PlumpJack as Gavin Newsom, the owner, cranks up his campaign for mayor. This place has always catered to the Pacific Heights set, but now more and more politicos will be dropping by, and they'll be well fed by chef James Ormsby, who has a comforting and stylish way of cooking. The interior is casually elegant, with custom-designed chairs, wine racks and cushy banquettes. Even the buttons on the waiters vests, custom made, match the oval pattern of the chandeliers. In addition to the great food, the interesting wine list is one of the best priced in the city.
Cuisine: California (Mediterranean) Specialities: Ahi tartare cones; crab cakes with fennel and tangerine salad; duckling trio (roasted breast, crispy leg and confit spring roll); devil's food cake; strawberry shortcake. Seats: 60 Prices: $10-$29.50 Parking: Valet $9.50 Vitals: 3127 Fillmore St. (near Greenwich), San Francisco; (415) 563-4755. Beer and wine. Lunch weekdays; dinner daily. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
