Ron Siegel has reinvented Masa's, the restaurant that has been at the top of its game for most of its 20 years in business. The luxurious design by Orlando Diaz-Azcuy adds to the special-occasion, rarefied atmosphere. Chocolate brown walls, bronze sculptures and red shirred chandeliers create an elegant backdrop to Siegel's French creations that might include skate wing with wild mushroom risotto and a port reduction; herb-roasted partridge with foie gras and date compote with savoy cabbage and gnocchi; Maine lobster with caramelized salsify and black truffle sauce. The service, like the other elements, is some of the best in the city.
Cuisine: French Specialities: Two fixed-priced menus; vegetarian tasting menu. Seats: 65 Prices: $79-$109 a person Parking: Valet $11 Vitals: 648 Bush St. (at Stockton), San Francisco; (451) 989-7154. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
