Even Calvin Trillin of the New Yorker is now getting into the debate about the best taqueria in the Mission. While he may vote for La Cumbre, that place can't hold a candle to La Taqueria, which has been turning out these big, fat wonders since 1974. What makes theirs better is that no rice is added to the filling, so the flavor of the meat and salsa dominate. While waiting to order, patrons line up in front of the counter, where they can can watch the meat being grilled and chopped, the pork being stewed and the salsa being made. Seating is on picnic-style benches or on small tables outside overlooking Mission Street.
Cuisine: Mexican Specialities: Tacos and burritos, especially carnitas (pork); fruit drinks (cantaloupe, tangerine, strawberry). Seats: 65 Prices: $1.60-$4.55 Parking: Street (difficult) Vitals: 2889 Mission St. (at 25th Street), San Francisco; (415) 285-7117. Lunch and dinner daily. Beer. No reservations or credit cards.
