Few places in the United States can rival Kokkari for Greek food. Chef Jean Alberti has crafted a modern Greek menu that bows to California freshness, a quality reflected in the surroundings. The restaurant consists of several dining rooms, plus a cozy, cavelike room downstairs, and features beamed ceilings and a fireplace with an opening large enough to roast a pig. This dining room has the feel of someone's grand home, and the back dining room resembles a taverna, complete with an open kitchen and a massive urn filled with hot sand used to make Greek coffee. A sister restaurant, Evvia, offers a similar menu and upscale look in Palo Alto.
Cuisine: Greek Specialities: Appetizer platter with pita; octopus salad; whole grilled striped bass; lamb chops with lemon and oregano vinaigrette; moussaka. Seats: 200 Prices: $18.50-$32.95 Parking: Valet $8 at dinner Vitals: 200 Jackson St. (at Front), San Francisco; (415) 981-0983. Lunch weekdays, dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
