At the front door customers, are greeted by wood doors with martini-glass-shaped cutouts. The elliptical bar is set under a shimmering gold dome that replicates champagne bubbles. Glowing posts spaced around the mezzanine's metal railing double as wine buckets. Chef Robbie Lewis has taken over day-to-day operations from Traci Des Jardins. Of course, you'll still find some of Des Jardins specialties on the menu, but Lewis is carrying on in fine form.
Cuisine: California-French Specialities: Seared scallops with truffled mashed potatoes; crispy duck confit salad; chicken with chanterelle mushrooms. Seats: 140 Prices: $24-$33 Parking: Valet $10 Vitals: 300 Grove St. (at Franklin), San Francisco; (415) 861-5555. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.