The biggest draw to the Mill Valley restaurant used to be the impressive olive press displayed in a glass room at one end of the dining room. That was before Duilio Valenti took over the kitchen and began turning out incredible pasta and roasted meats. (Too bad the kitchen crew still hasn't mastered the pizza.) The corporate-looking interior belies the personal nature of the rustic food; it's slick and comfortable, but could be plopped down in just about any city and no one would know the difference.
Cuisine: Italian Specialities: Housemade pasta and risotto; oven-roasted mussels; oakwood roast leg of lamb with vegetable strudel. Seats: 210 Prices: $12.50-$23.95 Parking: Free lot Vitals: 152 Shoreline Highway (off 101), Mill Valley; (415) 289-5777. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
