The food won't dazzle you with creativity, but it will seduce you with rich, robust flavor from the first bite of appetizer to the last bite of dessert. The interior reflects the alternative sensibility of the Mission; it sports a modern industrial look with hardwood floors, wood benches and sand-blasted glass beakers that serve as pendant lights hanging from the ceiling.
Cuisine: Italian Specialities: Grilled calamari with warm white beans; grilled sardines on crostini; roast chicken; flatiron steak; spaghetti with tomatoes and chile flakes; buttermilk panna cotta. Seats: 70 Prices: $12-$18.75 Parking: Street (difficult) Vitals: 3621 18th St. (between Dolores and Guerrero), San Francisco; (415) 552-4055. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
