With a large bar downstairs and a more modest watering hole downstairs in front of a glassed-in kitchen, Cosmopolitan Cafe has the air of a supper club. Steve Levine's contemporary food offers some interesting twists and turns: scallops matched with oxtail; hanger steak with onion rings; pork chops with jalapeno-whipped potatoes. The majority of desserts are baked to order.
Cuisine: Contemporary American Specialities: Appetizer trio (one ingredient used three different ways); pan-roasted chicken with artichokes; braised beef short ribs; warm cookies and vanilla malt. Seats: 120 Prices: $14.50-$22.50 Parking: Lot (validated) Vitals: 121 Spear St. (between Mission and Howard), San Francisco; (415) 543-4001. Lunch weekdays. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
