This intimate and modern French bistro has brought a stylish attitude to the Birkenstock sensibility of Potrero Hill. If you want to know the "in" place to go for lunch these days, it's not somewhere in the Financial District, but at the corner of 18th and Missouri.
Cuisine: French Specialities: Potato salad with artichokes and asparagus; roast chicken with olives, lemon and garlic; Provencal bouillabaisse; lamb daube; warm chocolate caramel souffle. Seats: 40 Prices: $16-$24 Parking: Street (sometimes difficult) Vitals: 1401 18th St. (at Missouri), San Francisco; (415) 824-8210. Lunch Monday-Saturday; dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations accepted for dinner. Credit cards accepted.