Melissa Perello hasn't even hit 30, but she's cooking with the confidence of a chef twice her age. Her contemporary French menu is both innovative and intricate, served up in dining rooms that speak of an era when quiet posh surroundings were the only way to truly dine.
Cuisine: California-French Specialities: Foie gras tasting; meats such as lamb. Seats: 60 Prices: $32-$46 Parking: Valet $8 Vitals: 1250 Jones (at Clay), San Francisco; (415) 771-5400. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
When it opened five years ago, tapas bars were just beginning to take hold; now they're all the rage, but Cesar is still on top. The 65-seat restaurant was conceived mainly as a neighborhood drinking place with a prime location next door to Chez Panisse, but the food is so good that it attracts people from all over the Bay Area.
Cuisine: Spanish Specialities: Small plates, including fried potatoes with herbs and sea salt; cod and potato cazuela; spicy tuna and egg bocadillo (sandwich); extensive wine and liquor selection. Seats: 65 Prices: $2.75-$8.75 Parking: Street (fairly easy) Vitals: 1515 Shattuck Ave. (near Cedar), Berkeley; (510) 883-0222. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.
