The service, wine list and food have a big-city cachet, but the interior is small-town quaint, from the postage stamp-sized kitchen carved out of one corner to the two-level dining room that takes on an ethereal glow at night.
Cuisine: California-Mediterranean Specialities: House-smoked salmon with crisp potato pancakes; pecan-crusted goat cheese; pan-roasted pork tenderloin with mustard, prune and prosciutto sauce with spaetzle; seared black-pepper lavender filet of beef. Seats: 32 Prices: $13.95-$21.95 Parking: Street (generally easy) Vitals: 140 E. Napa St., Sonoma; (707) 935-5994. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday; brunch Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.