Few places evoke the Jazz and Deco Age better than this supper club, tucked away in an alleylike street in the shadow of the Transamerica Pyramid. With an impressive bar, a ceiling high enough to afford a dining mezzanine, wonderful art and live jazz nightly, it seems like a special place. However, the food had always lagged behind the look until Bruce Hill came onboard. Now the kitchen is as much of a star as the libations and entertainment.
Cuisine: American Specialities: Potato pillows with creme fraiche and caviar; seared foie gras; chicken hash; truffled hamburger on rye toast; bananas Foster. Seats: 100 Prices: $16-$32 Parking: Valet $10 Vitals: 56 Gold St. (near Montgomery), San Francisco; (415) 433-6300. Lunch Friday; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
