Antica's dark wood wainscotting, ebony-stained floor and mahogany chairs give it a neighborhood sensibility, but a destination ambience. Large windows, alabaster chandeliers and a graceful metal hood over the partly exposed kitchen further distinguish the interior. The chef offers many classics and a few unique dishes on his well-edited menu.
Cuisine: Italian Specialities: Gnocchi; monkfish wrapped in pancetta; grilled lamb chops with porcini mushrooms; grilled pork tenderloin with Gorgonzola; coppa Antica (pastry cream with whipped cream and crisp meringue). Seats: 50 Prices: $11.25-$18.75 Parking: Valet $10 Vitals: 2400 Polk St. (at Union), San Francisco; (415) 928-5797. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
