The beautifully lit room, with its bustling yet relaxed atmosphere, is filled with people who come for a sampling of Matthew Colgan's 14 dishes on the ever-changing menu, and the well-conceived wine list. If you can't nab a table, there's counter seating at the bar and a large communal table in the center of the room, where you could end up meeting your neighbors over the salt-cod fritters and wild boar sausage.
Cuisine: French (small plates) Specialities: Croque monsieur; mussels in Pernod; pommes frites with aioli; cheese selection. Seats: 87 (plus 35 on patio) Prices: $5-$14 Parking: Street (often difficult) Vitals: 5478 College Ave. (at Taft), Oakland; (510) 655-6469. Lunch Thursday-Saturday; dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Full bar. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.
