Gerald Hirigoyen, who also owns Fringale, is really cooking from the heart these days. To reflect his Basque heritage, he converted his other restaurant, Pastis, near Levi's Plaza to this new, exciting concept. The distinctive food is produced by chef Mattin Noblia. To support the change of direction, Hirigoyen has made the interior warmer and more rustic, with a communal table in the center, and bright Basque fabric runners on each table.
Cuisine: Basque Specialities: Chilled mussel and bread salad; garlic soup with rock shrimp; piperade; steamed snapper with fried garlic vinaigrette; sauteed squid with foie gras and grapes. Seats: 80 Prices: $9-$17 Parking: Street (fairly easy at night) Vitals: 1015 Battery St. (near Union), San Francisco; (415) 391-2555. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
