Small, delicious plates of Italian seafood make this restaurant a relaxing draw. Chef Ruggero Gadaldi, who also owns Antica Trattoria, opened this spot a few years ago but recently changed the concept to a cicchetti bar. He features a small list of well-selected wines, most available by the glass, and 20 or so items on the regular menu. These fresh, satisfying combinations are served up in classic grill surroundings, highlighted with a 16-seat zinc bar and teak shelving. Rich mahogany paneling on the dining room walls and white and green hexagonal tile floors are details that belie the reasonable tab.
Cuisine: Seafood (Italian) Specialities: Octopus and potato salad; raw oysters; fennel and arugula salad; Sicilian swordfish rolls; sauteed spinach with raisins and pine nuts; Sgroppino (sparkling wine dessert beverage). Seats: 40 Prices: $5-$18 Parking: Street (difficult); some lots Vitals: 2227 Polk St. (between Green and Vallejo), San Francisco; (415) 928-8025. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
