Chef-owner Paul Bertolli, who worked for years at Chez Panisse, is an artisan who would make a purist proud. He makes his own pasta, cures his own meats, ages his sausage and even makes balsamic vinegar. His food is so true to the spirit of Italian cooking that many Italians might be able to learn a few tricks from him. However, those who go expecting fancy plates of food and lots of accompaniments may be disappointed. The hallmark here is simplicity. The interior, which features an open kitchen with a grill and rotisserie, has a relaxed demeanor with a loftlike look.
Cuisine: Italian Specialities: Fresh pasta; house-cured meats; spit-roasted or grilled meats. Seats: 100 Prices: $19-$26 Parking: Free lot Vitals: 5655 College Ave. (at Shafter), Oakland; (510) 547-5356. Lunch Monday-Friday; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
