A peaceful aura settles over the interior of O Chame, a Japanese-inspired restaurant in the heart of the Fourth Street bustle in Berkeley. The restaurant has an Asian country sensibility, with stucco walls, rustic chairs and a large communal table in the middle. Chef-owner David Vardy's menu may have a Japanese sensibility, but it also has gentle California twists. Over the last few years, he's increased his menu of noodle dishes to include such toppings as roasted oysters with wakame and daikon sprouts; or tofu skins with shiitake mushrooms and spinach. Flavors are subtle and refined.
Cuisine: Japanese-California Specialities: Udon noodles (pork tenderloin and mustard greens); grilled river eel with Belgian endive; seared tuna sashimi with braised leeks and horseradish sauce; grilled skirt steak with portobello mushrooms and artichokes; sherry custard. Seats: 70 Prices: $9.50-$19.50 Parking: Free lot Vitals: 1830 Fourth St. (near Hearst), Berkeley; (510) 841-8783. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations accepted for dinner. Credit cards accepted.