For years Ed Moose held court at the Washington Square Bar and Grill in North Beach. When he sold it more than 10 years ago and moved to spiffy quarters on the other side of the park, he made the restaurant an instant hit. The food, under a number of chefs, has experienced many ups and downs. Now under Jeffrey Amber, the American-inspired combinations are as lively as the crowds. The open kitchen, always busy bar and live music nightly makes this a fun destination. Large windows overlooking the street and the park beyond add a nice sense of place.
Cuisine: American Specialities: Lobster-stuffed mini pumpkin; oven-roasted monkfish with braised bacon and parsnip cake. Seats: 125 Prices: $18-$32 Parking: Valet $6 at lunch; $9 at dinner Vitals: 1652 Stockton St. (near Union), San Francisco; (415) 989-7800. Lunch Thursday-Sunday; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.