Howard Bulka has cooked all over the Bay Area, but now he's settled in Menlo Park at his own restaurant, which has the tailored look of a designer suit. He has a passion for cooking and the menu changes so often that there are very few specialty dishes. He had duck confit on the menu for a long time, but after several months he got bored preparing it and took it off. Customers have come to trust in his bold style and his ability to combine ingredients. Bulka may pair California halibut with braised celery hearts, for example, and he poaches a filet of beef in a peppered broth and serves it with artichoke Bearnaise.
Cuisine: Modern French Specialities: Endive salad, Concorde cake. Seats: 65 Prices: $31-$33 Parking: Street, some lots Vitals: 898 Santa Cruz Ave. (at University), Menlo Park; (650) 324-9092. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
