Whenever her restaurant is open, you'll see Donia Bijan behind the stove, working next to her line cooks. Her seasonal menu is warm and satisfying: a rabbit pot pie with parsnips; Alaskan cod with a winter salad of citrus, beets and avocado; or flank steak with foie gras butter. The interior of the restaurant has a modern sensibility, with tables spilling out on the sidewalk for seating in warm weather. Inside, it can be a cramped and noisy when full, but the overall space is handsome. The best seat in the house is sitting at the counter in front of the open kitchen watching Bijan work. She's so much a part of the spirit of the place that when she takes a break, the restaurant closes.
Cuisine: French Specialities: Menu changes seasonally, but look for French onion soup; steak in red wine sauce with pommes frites; apple tart. Seats: 69 Prices: $18-$26 Parking: Street (sometimes difficult), nearby lots Vitals: 530 Bryant St. (near University), Palo Alto; (650) 323-7614. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
