La Folie was a restaurant that grew with chef-owner Roland Passot's vision. Opened in 1988, the storefront cafe served up moderately priced French-inspired food, but Passot, who has worked with some of the best chefs in France and the United States, started cranking up the artistry. A couple of years ago, he remodeled and expanded, creating an appropriate venue to match his four-star food. The interior, which features colorful stained glass in front of the kitchen, plays out a court jester theme, lightening the mood and keeping things from getting too serious. Still, it's one of the most expensive menus in the city, with many appetizers costing as much as main courses at many restaurants. The menu also features several fixed-price options ($75 and $85) and a vegetable menu ($55).
Cuisine: French Specialities: Parsley and garlic soup with snails; roasted lamb porterhouse on cassoulet of mixed beans; sauteed sea bass with truffle gnocchi; vegetable tasting menu. Seats: 79 Prices: $34.50-$39.50 Parking: Valet $10 Vitals: 2316 Polk St. (near Union), San Francisco; (415) 776-5577. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.