It's a fantasy come true: an exceptional restaurant tucked away on the side streets of Chinatown, out of reach of the tourist set. Chef Ji Nei' is newly arrived from Nanjing, a city about 200 miles due west of Shanghai. He speaks almost no English, or Cantonese for that matter, and shops every day in Chinatown to buy ingredients for his nightly dinners. The menu changes nightly, depending on what he finds and what he feels like cooking. Diners call for reservations and he does the rest. He's practically a one-man operation, so there can be waits between courses, and you may end up bussing your own tables, but no one seems to mind.
Cuisine: Chinese Specialities: Quail soup; velvet abalone; house pickled meats and vegetables; rose duck; basil-mushroom stir-fry; poussin with souffled taro balls. Seats: 36 Prices: Multicourse banquets start at $35 (for 16 to 20 dishes) Parking: Some lots; street (difficult) Vitals: 923 Pacific Ave. (at Powell), San Francisco. (415) 981-7438. Lunch and dinner Friday-Wednesday. Beer and wine pending (bring your own). Cash only. Reservations accepted.
