Food is evocative of the bistros of France and the trattorias of Italy, with a little Spanish thrown in for added spice. The corner storefront dining room is surrounded by flower-boxed windows, creating a charming urban-country view. The glazed mustard walls are cheerful during the day and take on a romantic glow at night.
Cuisine: Mediterranean Specialities: Tempura-fried green beans; snails with bone marrow; baked pasta; braised beef cheeks; bittersweet chocolate and coffee vacherin. Seats: 80 Prices: $19.50-$25.50 Parking: Street (difficult at lunch) Vitals: 598 Fourth St. (at Brannan), San Francisco; (415) 543-2222. Lunch weekdays, dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
