When you pull back the curtains and get a whiff of the cheese and sauteed onions, take in the ceramic platters on the gold-sponged walls and see the Italian waiters scurrying from table to table, you feel like you've grabbed a piece of Italy. The meal is served at a leisurely pace, and because so much is made to order, the waits can be a little longer than at most places.
Cuisine: Italian Specialities: Risotto (changes daily); orecchiette with broccoli rabe; ravioli with butternut squash; broiled lamb chops with balsamic sauce; tiramisu. Seats: 70 Prices: $9.95-$21.95 Parking: Street (generally easy) Vitals: 737 Diamond St. (near 24th St.), San Francisco; (415) 282-4969. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
